Questions?

If you have a question that is not listed below and you want it publicly answered ask away here.  I do not allow spam links, no person wanting to actually read comments wants to wade through those.  You can also email me directly through my contact form.  Comments or questions that are not according to the topic of transmission swaps will be deleted.

I reserve the right to keep some information to myself.  I can’t patent what I sell so I do need all the edge I can get to make a modest living- thanks for your understanding.

Can you give me some pointers to tune the transmission myself?

If you are using an aftermarket system, I can give pointers to some degree. Changing shift points is something that the end user can do without to much fear of causing damage. In the case of the Ford 4R100, most guys just need some help getting it set up right and once they are pointed in the right direction they can make final adjustments. The Ford 5R110 on the other hand requires shift quality tuning, and that is expertise that is too difficult to transfer.

Do I need to bring my truck to you?

No, the transmission is tuned best using recorded data of test drives, called data logs. Even if you brought the truck to me I would still use data logs to tune the trans. The only possible advantage of bringing the truck to me is that I can drive the truck exactly how I need to in order for me to see the data I need to see. This can be a disadvantage however, because I may not drive the truck like you do, so when tuning long distance I can give direction to the customer to drive in a certain way if needed.

Why do you charge by the hour?

Believe it or not, it’s in your best interests. Tuning is very variable in nature. There are a lot of tuners out there that make bold claims of sending you a perfect one time tune, but such a thing just doesn’t exist. The best tunes are developed from studying data logs that show how the tune is working with the truck and driver and adjusted accordingly. Some tunes can take a hour or so to build and others may only take 10 minutes. If I do a flat rate charge per tune hoping it will even out in the end, you may pay for a complicated tune when a simple tune is all you need. On my side of the coin, if I were charging the same per tune, I may need to spend a lot of time studying a poor shift that is intermittent, and be faced with a choice to rush through it, or do it right and not make any profit.

Whatever amount of time you need, you won’t be surprised with a big bill in the end since you pay for the service up front, and you won’t have to shell out a big amount if you just need a moderate amount of tuning.

I need to make a reasonable profit. If the services I provide aren’t profitable I can’t continue providing that service.

How can I trust you to be honest with the time you charge?

I understand it is difficult to trust service providers these days, and unfortunately trust takes time to build. I have made it a little easier with the following:

You only have to buy as many hours ahead of time as you are comfortable with- and I typically only sell an hour or so the first time anyway. A half hour is my minimum, so you can pay for that much and see how it goes. If you don’t feel I am being honest with my time you aren’t out a lot of money if you go elsewhere.

I track my time and provide the customer with that information.

I need your business and I have a reputation to build, so it would not be smart of me to rip you off. I am working hard to be the best at what I do and realize that my customers are my best advertising. Unfortunately many businesses these days don’t do business that way, intentionally or unintentionally, and that makes most understandably skeptical.

What happens if there is time left over?

If there is time that you paid for left over it can be saved as a credit for you to use in the future, or I can give you a refund. I try my best not to charge out for more time than I think is needed or wanted by the customer (I rarely sell more than an hour at a time) so chances are good that there will not be any time left over. If there is time left over, I can offer to build you an alternative tune for towing. I typically wait until we have a good normal tune, then build the tow tune if you want one.

If I buy an AutoCal and decide I want to use it with another tuner will you unlock it for me?

Absolutely- in fact I can do it remotely and it will not cost you a dime.

70 thoughts on “Questions?”

    1. I’m working with 3 customers that had 5 speeds already and when I have confirmed that what I supplied them with works and is tuneable, I will be officially offering it. I am fairly confident I can offer reprogramming, wiring harnesses and tuning already for customer supplied 3rd generation control modules and am working on using the smaller 4th gen controller as well, which would enable me to offer modules with warranties.

      Since I am waiting for those guys to finish their projects, it’s hard to say when I’ll know for sure. If you have a 5 speed already and don’t mind experimenting some give me a call or email and we can discuss how I can offer you something.

      1. i do have a 5 speed all ready, but like the rest of the guys it is in the project stage. i am trying to gather all the parts an knowledge to do it at one time an not have it drag on.

        1. Update: I have a few 5 speed customers now using the older all aluminum Gen 3 control module (TCM).

          My preference is for customers to source their own used TCM, and I can get those reprogrammed to work with an analog throttle position sensor (which works best for most “stand alone” applications).

          Still waiting on some proof of another alternative I have developed as well.

      2. An update to this, I now have over twenty 5 speed customers out there. Initially it was a little rocky tuning these, but things are getting pretty stable now. I have not been able to use the 4th gen module, but can often get any ’00-05 Gen 3 module that was used for a 1000-2400 series Allison programmed for direct analog throttle position sensor signal, or if your engine has J1939 that works great. Remember, this is not an Allison approved or warranted thing, but it works.

  1. I have an 03 Dodge 2500 with 24 valve Cummins and 48re. There are some mild upgrades to the engine in which I’m not totally familiar with beings I bought the truck with the mods already done. On a low note, due to the August flooding in Louisiana, I have lost my transmission. I found a used low mileage 68rfe along with a couple of reputable shops to rebuild my transmission ( one will even upgrade or bulletproof it). But as you’re well versed in these transmissions, none of these are cheap. But I did find another 48re that is almost robbery cheap. The problem is, this one is in an 06 Dodge 2500. By looking through your forum and a few other ones, I know that the 06 is different than the 03. My question is, with the differences between the two, can I still use the 06 transmission in my 03? If so, what do I need to do/use from 06 truck to make it work? Do I need a different control module or programming? My plan if I can use this transmission, is to install it to get my ride back on the road and put my transmission in the shop to be rebuilt and upgraded or buy the 68 and do the swap. Your advice is appreciated.

    1. I’m not the best resource on 47 or 48REs Ronald, but I’ll tell you a little of what I do know. Some early 03 trucks had 47s in them and as far as I know you could bolt a 03-04 48 right in. In 05, however they took the throttle valve cable off and put a TTVA on, (Transmission Throttle Valve Actuator). It’s a servo motor that does the same thing the cable did, only it doesn’t have to be directly related to throttle position and is electronically controlled according to the factory or custom transmission tune. I’m not sure if those can be removed off of the 05- early 07 48s and the cable stuff put back on without other parts being changed or not- but I’m sure guys that build them on a regular basis would know.

      As far as I know that is the only difference that would cause you issues putting it in your 03 truck.

      If you go through with it, post back and let us know how it went.

      1. Thanks Jason, I’m definitely gonna try it. For the price ( under $300 for anything and everything I can get off other truck), I can’t pass it up. The engine is bad or else I would get everything under hood (wiring included) in case I needed to do full swap. I will let you know how things go

  2. I have a IHC school bus with an AT545 transmission in it.. im looking to convert it to an Overdrive transmission, the bus has a GVWR of 17500 lbs and the engine is a 210 HP T-444E with the diamond logic (stock) computers (its not a ford Powerstroke 7.3).
    can I buy everything from you? full kit? transmission, TCM, harness, programming, trans tuner, etc?

    basically everything I need except the driveshaft which i’ll get shortened myself?

    1. Hi Chris,
      I could supply everything and mark it up to make a profit, but would rather just concentrate on what I do best, so I don’t typically supply transmissions or other parts customers can find on their own locally or close to them. Most customers like to get the best deal by finding it on their own. Others like yourself may not have the time to deal with all that and prefer to purchase it all at the same place, and I apologize that I do not have that option.

      I can help by giving you information on what to look for, part numbers, and reasonable prices you can expect to pay. In your case, you will want to look for a commercial medium duty 6 speed Allison. Although the bell housings are interchangeable, the Medium duty transmissions already have an SAE (round) bell housing vs the Chevy bell housing. Most if not all of the models I mention are SAE 3s, which is what you probably have, but I can send prospective customers more info so they can make sure. By the way, those that have the Powerstroke 7.3 can possibly use the adapter parts off of an engine like yours to swap an Allison in their Ford.

      Whenever shopping for a used trans, get the serial number and date code off of the tag on the transmission and check with me or an Allison Dealer to verify what the trans is. Some reman transmissions do not have any Allison tags left on them, so that can be a problem when the seller doesn’t really know what they have. The 2100, and 2300 models do not have a parking pawl and have the same ratios as the Chevy 1000 series. The 2200 and 2350 have parking pawls and same ratios. The 2500 does not have a parking pawl and is what they call a wide ratio. Except for 4th gear, these transmissions have slightly lower gear ratios, and actually have a slightly narrower 4th to 5th gear ratio spread which is better for towing and heavy vehicles, but also a lower 6th gear which isn’t quite as good for freeway cruising. I have been told that the medium duty transmissions all have straight cut planetaries which are likely a little stronger than the helical cut pickup versions, but even the 1000 series was designed to handle a vehicle at your GVW rating (19,500 max GVW, and 26,000 GCVW).

      As far as I know right now I can run all of these transmissions I mentioned with my system, but the proof has not been shown in a data log just yet. I do have a few customers finishing up projects that will supply that proof sometime in the near future. The commercial versions do require a slightly different wire harness connector that costs me a bit more so I charge a little more to cover that in the harness build.

      A used core transmission can be as cheap as $600 from a private person or as much as $1200 from a wrecking yard. Those are sold with the understanding that they will need a rebuild, and that can cost $2500 or more- maybe cheaper but beware!

      A used take out from a wrecking yard that has a 90 day warranty will be reasonably priced around $1600- but you will see lots priced around $1800 or higher. Generally, most junkyard takeouts were not behind the same engine you will be using it behind so you need to be aware that the converter stall ratio may not be ideal. If you get a transmission from a similar engine you can expect a fairly good stall, otherwise it may not be so ideal but if you aren’t too concerned about crawling over curbs or excellent acceleration away from a stop light it may not be something that bothers you. It is possible to lock up the converter in 2nd gear but that is not the best fix for a poorly matched converter stall ratio.

      Guys that are going to put more power to the transmission better not chance a junkyard take out and will spend more for a rebuild, with the biggest chunk going to an aftermarket converter with a more ideal stall ratio.

      The EFI Live AutoCal or V2 tuner is available from many fine vendors that offer them as part of their regular business at great prices, so I send my customers to them and can email them the base calibration and help them set up the device for their application.

      If you don’t want to adjust the tuning parameters yourself, the AutoCal is what you want and they are available for around $360.00 shipped to your door. The V2 is for guys that want to try to adjust things themselves (I don’t tutor those doing tuning on their own by the way). Both tools have the same diagnostic functions when used with a laptop, except the V2 can accept signals from aftermarket or third party sensors or devices (which has never been used by any of my customers for the transmission, EFI Live mainly includes that for use with engines, an Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor being an example).

      Thanks for sharing your question and let me know about any more you have.

    1. Tuning the 5R is complicated enough that it really varies, and that is why I charge by the hour. Most guys only spend about $120 or less with me because they are comfortable with how their trans shifts after a base tune and a few adjustments. Some of those transmissions are tuned fairly well and others still really need some work, but the owners are ok with them as is so they stop sending me logs.

      A few customers have spent $300 or more with me, those guys wanted a tow/haul tune in addition to a normal tune, were more difficult to tune for various reasons – like more than average high performance engines, were running something other than Mercon SP or LV fluid, or just had other abnormal issues.

      Typically the first few adjusted tunes only take me 15-20 minutes each because I don’t need to note out a log to see what needs adjustment. As the fine tuning progresses with a factory smooth but 1/2 second fast shift as the target, I have to note out the logs to see what intermittent poor shifts need and once in a great while it isn’t real apparent what it needs and I have to try a few different angles to get it right.

  3. I have a 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4 with the 8.0 liter gas engine. It is my understanding that this has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the cummins? Would it be possible to swap the 68RFE into my truck?

    1. I have read that the bellhousings are the same as well, but have never proven it to be true myself. The other things that you would need to know is if the 6 bolt pattern 68 converter would bolt up to a V10 flexplate, and if the distance between the torque converter and the flexplate are the same. Since I don’t know for sure about those two important details either I would not recommend you try it unless you were ok taking the risk of buying a transmission and it not working out. If all of that was the same as a Cummins you would still have to deal with the converter pilot size difference, either by using my boring tool (another experiment because I don’t know if the V10 crank has enough meat for the bigger 68 converter pilot) or by having a custom converter built with the V10 pilot size, or by possibly getting a machine shop to cut the 68 converter pilot down. Otherwise you could bolt a 68 up with my spacer to the V10 engine.

  4. Hi, I am looking at swapping a late model 6-speed Allison behind my DT466 to replace the RTO6610. I’m getting tired of stirring through the gears. The DT466 is mechanical, but it is my understanding that your setup has a way to use a TPS mounted to the linkage??

    My biggest question is how to determine that the Allison is a 6-speed. I see many 2006 and later 2000 series that are “5-speed”. Is it just the year, or is there another way to tell? Running the serial numbes on “My Transmission” tells me gear group or control valve group; is there a way to be sure it is a 6-speed?

    Thanks for your help and I look forward to working with you on tuning this rig.

    1. You may end up missing the extra gears the 6610 has quite a bit if you pull heavy – but yes, I can set up a system that uses analog TPS signal from either an Allison TPS or other universal cable type for mechanical engines.

      The best way to see if it is a 5 or 6 speed is to drop the pan and look for two steel tubes connected to the bottom of the valve body. 5 speeds only have one tube. Early 5 speeds only have 6 solenoids, the “G” solenoid is only in the late model 5 speeds but can be retrofitted to the early 5 speeds if the controls are enabled for it. This solenoid cuts line pressure for lever shifts and low throttle shifts at normal operating temperatures.

      From my experience, 06-09 6 speeds have the 16-1818 control valve group number as seen on the “My Transmission” site. Late 5 speeds have the 16-1792 control valve group, and early 5 speeds have the 16-1751 control valve group.

  5. Hello,
    I was wondering if you have a kit for the Aision AS69RC to be installed on a 2006 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins.

    1. I get a few inquiries on the Aisin 68 and 69RCs. I built a base calibration for one with the PCS-2000, and actually have a potential customer that is planning to try it out eventually but I have no idea when he will be done with his project. He already has a transmission and is willing to risk trying it out.

      If you do not already have one of those transmissions, and can’t afford to wait for a while for that swap to be proven possible, I would recommend considering an Allison or 68RFE swap instead.

  6. Considering doing a Allison 1000 swap in a 2003 cummins. Currently has NV5600. I have a adapter plate, flywheel, wiring harness, controller(large aluminum case controller from a 2005 chevy truck), 2005 Allison transmission and full rebuild kit for the tranny. I bought all of this for another project that hasn’t gotten started yet. Thinking on still keeping this for the project I intended though and going with a 6 speed instead.

    Need to know if I would be better to stay with the 5 speed I currently have (I know that this would be the cheapest) or go with the 6 speed Allison or should I consider a 68rfe. I typically pull 10000+lbs on a regular basis in the fall months. Truck is also a daily driver and a plow truck in the winter when we get snow. I am a backyard mechanic but am not afraid of any challenge. I never take any of my vehicles to be worked on. I know that probably doesn’t tell you much on my abilities. I’m not going to tell you that money isn’t an issue because at some point money is an issue for everyone no matter how much they have lol.

    if you need any more information from me please just let me know.

    1. The following considerations should help you make your decision:

      If you get out on the freeway a lot the 6 speed is nicer. Even with 3.55 gears and 32″ tires, you can still tow some at light throttle in 6th and the trans can be tuned to go right down into lower gears if you need them without it hunting back and forth too much if you can keep the throttle fairly steady. 6th gear can also be cancelled with a switch if that works better for you. 6th gear is also nice for around town, but if you rarely get out on the freeway a 5 speed isn’t bad especially if you already have one.

      If your engine is stock or at least under 400 hp, the 68RFE tows better because the gear ratios are more evenly and closely spaced. If you are over 400 hp, the gear ratios of the 68 are still nice but I consider the Allison more durable and better proven for handling the extra power.

      Automatics can be great for plowing snow – it’s good that your 5 speed is an ’05, it will have the “G” solenoid that the ’00-’03 versions did not have. That solenoid helps lever shifts be a lot smoother. I can get your control module re-programmed to work with the 5 speed and build a new harness for you or modify the one you have.

      One of the challenges of an Allison swap is the transfer case – however, your 271 can be modified to bolt up to the Allison with a clocking ring, nothing super expensive is required and I’ll email you more information. It would bolt right up to a 68, and typically that swap is much cheaper.

    1. I emailed you David, but haven’t seen a reply back yet so will reply here as well. It may be possible to use Google Translate to communicate, I don’t know much Spanish. I am a PCS dealer and can offer the 2800 for a 5R110, and I also have information on using the factory control system as well.

  7. Hello I’m placing a Allison 1000 out of a 2003 Chevy 2500 be hind my 1994 f350 4×4 7.3 power stroke. I would like to know if you sell a controller for this set up. I will be using the Chevy transfer case and modifing the drivlines. I’m a mechanical engineer with some knowledge of wiring and controls as I work for a company that installs control systems. I have a lot of diesel engine experiance. Please let me know if you offer any controller for the 5 speed Alison set up. I would like a controller pre programed that I could make some basic mods to.
    Thanks

    1. I do offer support for 5 speeds, but a little differently than 6 speeds since new or rebuilt control modules for 5 speeds are very expensive. I can build a new harness and typically get customer sourced, used GM or medium duty control modules reprogrammed to use an analog throttle position sensor if your engine is mechanical or does not have the J1939 communications bus. For electronic controlled engines, like your 7.3 you can opt to use what I call a TCR module. This module can rescale the shared throttle position sensor signal from your existing accelerator pedal, and it also keeps that signal active for the transmission system when your cruise control is active.

      I’ll email you specific sales information for your project that includes prices, options, and swap tips.

  8. Does the PCS TCM2800 allow for torque reduction during shifts?

    I’m doing a 68rfe swap into a ford with a 2006 Cummins 5.9 and I’d like to try to incorporate torque management to keep the 68 happy as long as possible.

    1. The control system does have a function for it using J1939, but it all depends on if the engine will support it Joe, and I have not had any success using that with 06-09 Dodge Cummins engines yet and am pretty much to the end of trying it with them for now, so the answer at least in that year group is a pretty solid no right now at least. It may be possible with ’10 and newer 6.7s but nothing has been proven with those either. If you are around 400 hp or less I am pretty confident it’s not needed, otherwise – if you have more power it’s best to go with an Allison.

      That leads into the question if it is possible with the Allison, but same answer there.

      Now it is possible that I could develop it if I took control of the engine’s throttle input, but I don’t think I will ever go there due to safety liability concerns, the system would require a lot of safety controls to prevent any potential of something going wrong with the system and commanding full throttle to the engine when it shouldn’t.

      At this point I am not convinced torque reduction is something that is necessary even with high horsepower, as long as the shift quality is decent (not too soft or too snappy). I have racers and daily drivers out there with Allisons that have significant power and seem to be holding up ok with billet components, next race season will prove it out better.

  9. Thanks for the quick response Jason.

    I will look into the Allison swap.

    When you say 400hp is that at the flywheel or at the wheels?

    1. I mean that as a general limit, so I’ll just say at the wheels. You likely know already that it’s not being over a certain horsepower number that causes damage so much but it depends more on how a guy drives his horsepower and what it is used for. It’s not like you’ll be fine no matter how you drive it at 400, but taking chances at 425. Towing hard after sitting at a stop light, or stomping on the pedal right during a shift can be much harder on things than an empty 0-60 launch just for fun. If you plan to drive it hard, like an off road race truck or a Corvette – then lower the limit or build accordingly :). If you are reasonable with your power then a more moderately built trans will likely handle more.

  10. Looking at swapping an Allison 1000 6 speed into an older IH pickup. Going to use a DT360 mechanical diesel engine so no cruise control. But plan on 4×4 (divorced or married from behind a duramax). Do you sell transmissions/torque converters, or just the electronics involved?

    1. No I don’t sell transmissions or converters right now, but if I did it would be from a good builder you can go to yourself – like Xcalliber, SunCoast, etc – I just focus on the electronics. I’ll email you some more info to help you plan your project.

  11. I am wondering what would it take to put a Allison behind a 1997 Vortex 454(7.4L) with the NV4500 already in it, it’s a 2WD as well?

    1. I have done a few Allison swaps behind gas engines using the 8.1 GM A40 system. Rather than use a CAT tps, I use a module that scales a pwm throttle signal output from a typical analog throttle position sensor, which is a much easier and better option, especially when you already have a tps. The system I normally build and offer for diesels is not the best due to a 3800 rpm limit in the calibration for those systems. I emailed you some more specific info.

      1. A40? does this include my 01 silverado 8.1 Allison 2wd? Is a Crank and TPS sensor all needed to make my transmission shift with my stock system using HP tuners to set shift points?

        1. David, the A40 control module is used in 06 and up 6 speeds, yours is a 5 speed. All 5 speeds have the input speed sensor in the bellhousing, so no crank signal is needed from the engine, but it would need the correct tps signal. If your system is all OEM factory, then it already has all it needs – you just need the tuning stuff and HP Tuners may work ok – I have only used EFI Live myself on both 5 and 6 speeds.

  12. I hope you are still doing this! I’m going to be needing a tune up adjustment to my TCM soon.
    I converted my 98 Fleetwood Motor Home from Ford 460 Gas to 98 5.9 L Cummins with a #`10 fuel plate. Currently I’m running an AT542 in my Coach, but have been collecting all the pieces for a 1000 conversion. I have a A 1000 5 speed out of a Freightliner Delivery Van. I have the TCM, wiring harness, and all the other pieces. Waiting for delivery of the TPS I just bought. (Last piece of the puzzle.)
    Now I need to do is install it all and get the Coach rolling.
    So, if you’re still at it I’ll be calling you before Summer to reprogram my TCM.
    Curtis in Texas

    1. I’m still “all in” with the Allison stuff Curtis. You’ll have to send the TCM to me for reprogramming – I don’t actually do it here but have someone that can – EFI Live cannot reprogram for the TPS throttle. You’ll need to send your wire harness in to me for some add in modifications as well, unless you already know what needs done with it. I don’t mind doing mods to used harnesses to help save you some money, but you’ll have to live with the length of the harness as it is. Sometimes those are merged with a bunch of other wiring and it doesn’t save you any money for me to weed all of that out, make repairs, and add in new relays or fuse protection. I’ll email you with more information, Jason

  13. 06 Dodge 2500 5.9 48re, all gauges, Banks auto tune power levels 1-6. Mostly always in 2 (economy) except 3 when towing, 1 is stock.

    Would like upgrade to 68rfe at some time and now looking for transmission. I see that some suppliers indicate a difference between 07-10 and 11+. What are differences (if any) and how to identify?
    Would like to retain tow/haul option. Does transmission shift only by throttle position or load (tps + boost)?
    Thanks
    Jim

    1. Sorry for the delay answering Jim,

      The 07-09 transmissions apparently have un-anodized valve bodies and are prone to wearing out quicker. They use an extra solenoid for overdrive and I can still run them but prefer the later models. ’10s had the newer valvebody (from factory had a grey main harness connector – but now the replacement solenoid pack has the white connector like the older transmissions).

      I’ve read that the late ’11 and newer have better torque converters to handle the extra 150 ft/lbs of torque the 6.7 threw at it, but I don’t know what they did.

      There is a serial or part number on the driver side of the trans on a sticker and it is also shot into the pan rail as well. The transmissions with numbers ending in “AE” are ’10s, and “AG” and so on are likely ’11 and later models, with “AD” being ’09 or earlier.

      Tow/haul is a standard feature with lock to lock shifts from 2nd to 6th if desired with the new system. Shift quality is controlled by calculated load, using tps and rpm right now and I should have boost added into the calculation soon.

      I still do not recommend the 68 for much over 400 hp, (certainly not over 450) even though it can likely be built to handle 5-600 – I still think the Allison is a better trans to invest high performance parts money in for horsepower.

      1. Jason, kind of long reply, but I appreciate your help.
        Truck is 06 2500 4×4 auto—-build date may06

        HP is not an issue, 375hp is probably max, original unmodified transmission has about 100,000 miles with no issues, just want better gearing and 6 speeds. Truck is daily driver and I need to minimize downtime, so trying to plan for all issues ahead of time.

        ##Torque Converter- can’t find info to verify if my crank is comparable. I’m not a machinist, how difficult is it to rebore pilot hole?
        ##Transfer case input shaft- will it require change?
        ##Dash shift indicator- will it still work? Still use same tow/haul/OD lockout switch?
        ##Cruise control- will it still work?
        ##Cooling lines- located on right side. Need to reroute. Issues?
        ##Adapter plate- required?
        ##Transmission operational info- temp, gear, slip, etc. Can this be monitored? Does it connect to trucks OBDII?

        Thanks for your help and info. If there’s anyone in southeast Texas that’s done one of these conversions I’d like to talk to them and see it.

        1. I should have emailed you some more info on that specific swap Jim, sorry and will do that – check your spam folder if you don’t see it tonight.

          Your crank pilot hole should be the right size, I haven’t seen an 06 yet that wasn’t so no need to worry about the boring.

          Yes your transfer case will need a 29 spline input. Transfer cases that were behind a Dodge manual trans should bolt right up.

          I have dash indicator and cruise stuff working for the Allison swaps and am working on getting those functions in the 68RFE system as well – I just need to confirm I have enough memory room in my integration module after I copy all of the code into the existing program for that application. That is something I haven’t had time for lately but will be working more aggressively on it later this month.

          Cooler lines can be done as simply as connecting good hose with good hose clamps to the existing lines going to the existing coolers, after some barbs have been formed on the end of the tubes with a double flaring tool or something better – or replacing all the fittings and using some AN flare fittings and hose.

          The cleanest way to bolt up the trans to a 03 and newer Commonrail is to bolt a 6.7 68RFE transmission to engine adapter on. I’m honestly still a little unclear if there is currently stuff that is bolted to the back side of your current adapter that would not match up or not. Older engines have two bolts that don’t match up in that adapter, so I make the spacer to allow the 5.9 47/48RE adapter to be kept on those.

          The integration module, I call it a TCS module (torque converter – shift), that I use in conjunction with the PCS controller is what outputs the transmission data for data logging to a Windows based laptop or tablet, and I supply an open source program that does have nice gauge and indicator functions.

          No one in Texas running one yet. I’ll remind you to check with your local emissions department to see if they are ok with you doing a transmission swap. With the closer split gear ratios and more gears, common sense screams the swap will help emissions but until I have an exemption it likely is an issue.

          1. Jason,

            Regarding this:
            “No one in Texas running one yet. I’ll remind you to check with your local emissions department to see if they are ok with you doing a transmission swap. With the closer split gear ratios and more gears, common sense screams the swap will help emissions but until I have an exemption it likely is an issue.”

            In states where vehicle emissions inspections occur is this an issue with 2nd gen Rams? (I have a ’99). I’m wondering if the stock engine and transmission control modules are separate on 2nd gens so that an emissions inspection will not “see” that the stock transmission control is not active. I’m in Oregon – in some metro areas there is an emissions test on ’96 and newer by plugging in to the OBDII port – but no visual inspection. The state says it’s to check “emissions equipment”, but would it also catch that the stock transmission control is no longer active or see a MIL or fault code that certain transmission functions are not working? There are a few fault codes listed in the 2nd gen OBD list referencing the trans. I’ve not found any reference in Oregon stating that certain mods are illegal and there does not appear to be a ‘referee’ system as in California to give advice about what is accepted in an emissions test when making modifications. I’d really like to put the 68rfe in my truck but with the state mostly unhelpful, don’t want to find out only after doing so that I can’t license it. If you can expand on what the exemption you might be working on means, that would be helpful.

            Thanks for any advice.

            Curry

          2. It is likely an issue on a federal level according to the letter of the Clean Air law, because it would probably be interpreted as tampering. We can hope that common sense would help our case, a transmission swap of a newer vehicle certainly does nothing directly to the engine’s emission system, but common sense in government can be pretty low these days! Whether or not it would be enforced seems to be up to the States – but that could change at some point in our turbulent political climate.

            Even if there are no codes, that does not clear the truck if a visual inspection were performed. Even though you may not be required to do a visual inspection now, you may be in the future. A C.A.R.B. exemption would be helpful to clear the swap in states that have adopted the CARB emissions standard, and at the Federal level as well, but it is a lengthy ordeal that I won’t begin pursuing until I am selling quite a few more of these swaps. If there is no one locally that can ease your concerns, you would be taking a risk of having hassles in the future if anything changed in your state.

  14. Hi Jason,
    I have a few questions for you…If you don’t mind?
    I’m in the process of swapping out a 1976 Winnebago Chieftain with a 440/727 to a 1999 Cummins 5.9
    The original 47 RE is toast and I have access to a 2006 Allison 1000 2wd 6 speed.
    1. With your stand-alone TCM Will it work with the Cummins ECM? I would like to keep the cruise control.
    2. If I bought your adapter plate what Torque converter, flywheel and starter do I use?
    3. The Dodge M400 chassis has Dana 60 with 4:10 LS. total weight 12,000lbs.
    I plan to bring the 24V to around 375-400 HP.

  15. Hi Jason,
    I am in the middle of a big build that keeps evolving and stuck on the direction I want to head with the transmission. I am building a 1989 Chevy 3500 Quad Cab dually, I have a 1999 7.4l Vortec that I am in the middle of rebuilding and upgrading to a 58x crank / 4x cam trigger so I can run the E67 ecm (06-09 era) that speaks high speed GMLAN. I have a low miles Allison 1000 out of a 2005 chevy 3500 with entire wiring harness and 3rd gen TCU. Going to drive by wire on the motor I am hoping there is a way to flash the 4th gen tcu to control the 5 speed but yet use the gmlan to enable full comms between the two? Once I get the motor together I will be getting EFILive, I know the connectors are different and some sensors not used, but I am an electronics tech in the Navy and very comfortable with my wiring skills, it’s the…is this even possible to flash the 4th gen to control a 5 speed and utilize the GMLan bus? Hoping you can steer me in the right direction.

    1. Nice project Mike, Here is my short answer that I will offer here, but I’ll give you a little more info directly via email. I have tried to make a 5 speed 4th gen calibration but have not been successful. Such a calibration may be out there somewhere but I have not found one yet. The solenoids are set up totally different in the 5 speeds so it may not even be possible.

      If you haven’t already, you might consider converting the 5 speed trans to a 6 speed, then you could simply use the 06-09 8.1 Allison system as is and tune it with EFI Live if needed. If you don’t already know, the 5 to 6 speed conversion requires a different valve body and seperator plate, internal wire harness, the IMS sensor, and the shifter shaft (that goes through the IMS sensor).

  16. I have 2004.5 dodge 3500 4WD with 48rfe with tow tune. I pull 37 ft 5th wheel. Want to swap for 68rfe. Do you transmission also?

    1. I emailed you some specific info on that swap a few days ago, let me know if you didn’t get it. Jason

  17. Do you have any options for swapping the as69rc Asin ram transmission behind the earlier Cummins trucks?

    1. No not yet, although I have researched it out some because I have had a few guys ask, one guy has a trans already. I’ve discouraged him to use it because it will be a big experiment and trying out the base calibration I have developed could ruin the trans if he isn’t very careful. If there was a bigger market for it I would buy a trans myself and develop a system for it here but there isn’t. There are so many aftermarket parts out there for an Allison now and cores for those are so much more available and cheaper to buy it makes more sense to go with one of those for higher horsepower builds – and if guys don’t have big power the 68RFE is a good option so the Aisin just doesn’t fit in the market so well for valid reasons right now at least. That may change someday but I kinda doubt it. They are typically quite expensive to buy and they do break or wear out just like everything else, so those that need one will spend a good bit for a good used one – so if you have one sell it and use the money to invest in something else to swap in.

  18. I have an 01 Cummins from a MT-45 stepside van by freightliner.
    This is going in an 82 Chevy Crew Cab.
    It had a 5 speed behind it. I am swapping a 6 speed from an 07 GM Duramax because of deep rear end gears in my truck.
    I have the complete harness from the GM truck and TCM. Also wiring schematics from Allison.
    I want a push button shifter or an Allison floor lever shifter but still read diagnostics.
    1) how do I connect an electronic shifter?
    2) what wires do I not need in the 80 pin connector and the ones I do need, where do I terminate them? The wire schematic is not too clear or I’m not fully understanding.

    Thank you,

    1. Sorry Hunter, but your wiring questions are of the kind that I won’t answer because building wiring harnesses is part of what I am trying to earn a living from. I don’t think you could use an Allison (Arens) push button shifter including diagnostics with a GM pickup TCM. If you want to try to use something used, you would be way better off to look for a system out of a medium duty truck that includes the push button shifter, your commercial (non-Dodge) 01 Cummins will have the J1939 bus in the harness already. You can take your chances on the system being compatible with your engine, tire size, gear ratio, and etc. (would need to be non-SEM) or depending on what you end up with, I might be able to add in the necessary stuff to make it EFI Live tuneable for a reasonable price (the necessary stuff might include a different TCM however – Medium Duty TCMs are not all the same). You would have to send it to me spit spot clean – I’ve cleaned up my harness table from a used harness for the last time.

  19. Jason,

    I’m preparing to swap a Cummins 12 Valve into my ‘05 Ford F250, which currently runs the 6.0L/5R110 combination.

    I would like to stick with the 5R110, but I’m aiming for 500 HP territory with compound turbos. I tow 12,000 to 14,000 lbs. in mixed roads from rural backroads to highway. I’m looking to tune the engine for lower range torque, and don’t plan on high revs.

    Based on this information, would you be able to provide me with your service?

    1. I answered a similar question on the post about the new Powertrain Control Solutions 2800 controller Eric – no worries if you missed that. I’ll repeat some of that here and hopefully other guys asking the same questions will see this one, cause I probably spent too much time on this but your question deserves an honest answer and information you can use to make a good decision.

      I no longer offer SCT custom tuning for the Ford 5R110 using the factory control system, I have become too busy with my other services and products and no longer have the software. That is still the best option currently in my opinion, unless perhaps you were racing, and if that is the case a 4R100 should be considered. For what you plan to do with the truck it’s not a bad way to go since you already have the trans and the factory system. A well tuned factory 5R system is much nicer than an aftermarket 4r system in my opinion, although the aftermarket controls for the 4r have improved lately – but they are easy to tune and I haven’t worked with one in years.

      Your horsepower numbers warrant some work to the trans – but 05-07 factory systems have worked quite well with that level of horsepower in the past. 03-04 can be much tougher to tune with that power. Don’t make the same mistake others have made and put gobs of money in your engine and ignore what’s behind it. A good converter would be a necessity at that power level, and don’t skimp on the cost. There are only a few converter builders out there that really deliver a good stall for your combo- Goerend, SunCoast, and Precision are worth a mention – possibly others out there too – but bottom line make sure they know your expectations and what you are building. Ask them if you can get a free re-stall if it doesn’t turn out like you expect. A lot of “low stall” stuff out there is worse than stock and the proof is shown by the 1000 rpm the engine drops when it locks up. There are a lot of people out there that don’t understand stall and don’t even know how what to expect so a lot of converter builders get away with junk out there.

      Tuning is not typically done on these in one or two tunes, so expect a good bit of back and forth before it reaches it’s potential. Some guys needed over 50 tunes before they were happy, other guys are happy in 3 so it varies. A good bit of it often depends on how a person drives their truck and what they use it for. A lot of guys spend hours and hours on a project and then get very impatient with the trans tuning – so much so that some even opt to put a manual in. Quite a few of those kind of guys I never had the opportunity to help make this decision. To them it makes sense to rip the auto out and be done with the computer stuff, and what they think is all that really matters with their truck, but to me if they would apply the same sort of work ethic into working with a good trans tuner who will take the time to look at datalogs they would have what they wanted to begin with. Often times the issues they complain about aren’t even that serious either, they can still drive their truck just as comfortably as a manual – but I say all of this to prepare you and other guys a bit and it is that way with whatever good automatic you plan to work with. If you think you could live with a manual trans then do, but if you have tall tires, 3.73s, compounds that need some rpm, and so forth then be prepared to start out in first gear and be changing gears often. If you want an automatic behind a Cummins, then prepare yourself well for the expense and the work. Asking lots of questions first like you are doing is really smart!

      Finally I have to mention the other alternative of using the 2800. I have worked with two guys so far using the 2800 controlled 5R110, both guys have 08-10 6.4 trucks with strong 6.7s. The learning curve on this new controller has been very steep and I am not too confident yet with how it is working. The owner of one truck fried his forward clutch (a clutch that is not controlled by the controller by the way) and the owner had intentions of putting a different trans in. The other guy got busy with other stuff and we haven’t done any tuning for several months. I may resume tuning on that truck in the future, but the owner has decided to give another guy that claims he has it working really well a chance first – which is fine with me, if he can prove he can do what he claims on the datalogs I’ll send guys his way. If no one else can do a better job with them I may continue where I left off as I have time. So far I did the tuning work on both trucks for free. I won’t take on another free project – and hate to charge for something I am not confident doing, so for now I’m done with them, with the exception of a guy in Brazil that is still in the process of getting a project together.

      The 2800 is working ok with my 68RFE swap, but that is quite a different trans, with different programming – and I am using another small module that I developed to give me more control over shift and lockup quality. It has a lot of great features and has big potential, but for now at least the stock system is still the way to go if you have a 5R110 and Diesel Conversion Specialists are the guys I recommend do the tuning.

  20. Hi Jason,

    I’m getting ready to put a 07 6.7 cummins with 68rfe in my 03 6.0 excursion. I have the whole ram 2500 with 119k miles for wiring and so on. Do you have any recomendations as far as transmission control is concerned. My thoughts were to use the existing dodge tcm wiring and so forth. I’m not looking for any large increases in power. Mostly just deletes and maybe a light tune. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Rob-

    1. Sorry for the delayed response,

      It should be possible to use the stock system in your application, and I would recommend you try it, but it will likely require using all the supporting modules, the TIPM (fuse box),PCM/TCM, and probably even the ABS module for a vehicle speed signal. Then of course you’ll also probably need some tuning for the shift and lockup points, unless you are planning on using the same gear ratio and tire size as the Dodge it was in. Smarty UDC, HP tuners, or H&S is all that is really available for the 07.5-09 models. I don’t provide any of tuning services with those products but there are those that do.

      IF you did not have the whole donor truck, a ’10 and newer system might work better as the TCM is in the ECM, and there is more tuning software available (EFI Live). Some guys think that since the trans control module is separate in the 07.5-09 models that it would work as a “stand alone” system, but that is not true because it gets throttle and RPM signals via CAN bus from the ECM. A ‘07.5-09 trans would need changes in the valve body to work with the newer system as well.

  21. building a cummins 12 valve p-pump project. I am looking at going with a 1000 transmission with the control harness and so on. Is this going to be a problem? Ive been told it will work. Ive been told not to because the trans will burn up. I do need some help on this issue.
    Thanks

    1. Sounds like you have been told the trans will burn up because of no torque management. While I don’t have any customers out there with over 100,000 miles on one yet, I don’t have any yet that have had any clutch problems due to a lack of torque management either so I and many others out there think that the proof will continue to show that it is not. The 47RE didn’t have it either. If you are targeting over 350 hp some clutch upgrades aren’t a bad idea and you should definitely consider a better torque converter with a custom stall recommended by the converter builder after they know what you are building.

      Otherwise, be advised that custom tuning is very beneficial and you will need the correct control system with a mechanical engine, not all Allison systems are the same.

  22. looking for a throttle position sensor for allison harness .i have a 6.0 gas motor im currentley using the tps on the motor.all the gears are there but i have no gear spred with throttle it shifts the same spot every time no matter where my foot is on the gas pedal .its o1 set up im using 8.1 thank you

    1. It sounds like you have the tps wired up directly to the TCM – and that would not work, you could try connecting the unmanaged and managed torque wires up from your ECM, and I can possibly help with that directly via email (I’ll send you an email so you have my email address without having to go through my email form on my main website). When the TCM does not get the right signal, it will fake a signal according to rpm – and they only way to really see if things are happy is by looking at a data log.

      If the ECM signal wires did not work, then you could set up your 8.1 TCM using a CAT tps (which outputs a PWM signal) – but that is not quite the same as the ECM signals and doesn’t work quite as well. The other option is you could buy a converter box from me and use the tps signal you have – which is simpler in some ways because then you wouldn’t have to build a bracket and linkage for the CAT tps.

  23. EFI Live offers a V2 for GM, Dodge, and both. I am assuming that I would have to pay the extra for the “both” option if I wanted to modify the Cummins ECM and your Allison Standalone. Can you confirm if my thinking is correct?

    1. If you want to make tuning changes yourself Richard, then yes you would need licenses for both makes. If you just wanted to hire me and an engine tuner to do make the actual changes to the files then all you need is an AutoCal.

  24. I’ve been looking at an 2001 Chevy 2500HD that was originally a gasser, but has an 92 12v cummins paired with 2006 5 speed Allison 1000 trans swapped in, runs good, drives good, the dash doesn’t work, no speedo, or rpm, it shifts alright but can be rough. I’m wondering if we could get the trans running good, could you estimate what it would take in cost?

    1. With a project like this all I can really do is give you a price range Kasey, it could be as little as $50.00 for one hour of tuning if you already have an EFI Live tuner, or it could be at least $450 if you need to buy EFI Live, need a few hours of tuning and tech support, and some wire harness modifications to get things working right.

  25. Hi
    I have a ’71 B body with 26″ tires and 3.55 Dana 60 Looking for a single unit solution for trans & OD that will work in the vehicle mated to a 440 gas engine w/o EFI can a 68RFE work as my solution? I currently have a 727 and don’t like the freeway rpms. looking to save the motor…

    1. Sorry for the late reply Jim,
      There would be no problem with the programming or anything, it would just be a matter of bolting the trans up and if you could live with the low stall converter. The diesel pattern is different than the 440 – it’s only the same as the V10, and I think the 66RFE behind the newer Hemi’s is a different pattern as well, but not sure.

  26. Hello. I’m working on installing a 95 12 valve work am allison 6 speed on a 1950 can over chevy. From exploring your site, I see that your setup is compatible with tow/haul, PTO, and exhaust brake. That’s great because I plan to use all three. My question is, since I don’t have any modern amenities/switches in my truck now, can I wire up regular toggle or momentary switches to activate/deactivate said features?

    1. Yes you sure can use regular toggle switches Juan, but the wires for the feature controls must be isolated from power and chassis ground, so the common switches that include an indicator light cannot be used. If you want an indicator light you have to use a dual pole single throw switch – these have 4 terminals with each switched pair being isolated from each other. I can point you where to get them.

  27. Hi Jason,
    I don’t think this is anything new for you but this I think is the way I want to go, if you have any better advice/options I’m open. My clean low mileage 2001 7.3, automatic with manual 4×4 was stolen recently but recovered. Down side transmission is blown up and engine missing badly, looking at options. Thinking 94-98 5.9 12v with 07-10 allison 6sp to mate with my manual 4×4. 5.9 upgraded to 400/500 hp with suncoast/ats converter and trans. You will supply TCM, wiring harness, TPS ? Will tow/haul and cruise control still work as well as all associated lights/gauges like a factory install? What else will I need electrically? Thx, looking forward to working with you.

  28. Very unfortunate what happened Jim – hopefully they caught the thief!

    A lot of guys really like the 7.3s but they still have glow plugs :). I have a few customers out there running Allisons behind their 7.3s as well just so you know, but I must say after working on and driving both that I greatly prefer a Cummins. My 2 cents is stay around 400 hp or less for more reliability, drive-ability, and to keep the build costs manageable. Much over that you really need compound turbos to really use the power, head studs and more, so the price for stuff goes through the roof and so does future maintenance. There are many greedy vendors out there who will sell you anything, so plan your build wisely. There are a lot of traps to fall into with a big project like this, for example, some guys out there dump tons of money and time into an engine and then don’t plan for investing time and money into the transmission – so unfortunately they end up frustrated with an expensive truck they can’t really use.

    I’ll email you some specific info that helps you consider what type of adapter to use and etc, there are pros and cons with everything on the market at this time. Your transfer case will work fine with a clocking ring and I have lots of customers that have installed the output shaft speed sensor in the Allison extension housing themselves, and haven’t had any troubles.

    I’ve seen the best Cummins/Allison stall in Goerend’s converters, but you need to make sure they know what you are building when you order.

    I do supply the TCM and wire harness, built for your truck with a 2 year limited warranty. I generally just point you to the options for a TPS so you can get the best deal.

    There are lots of different and creative options to use your current cancel od switch by use of a momentary to toggle converter device. Tow/haul can work with the shifter switch or with a simple toggle switch. The cancel od light in the shifter can work as well, and if you want the function to match we can use the shifter switch for cancel 6th. The best option for that may be to use the shifter switch for both cancel 6th and tow/haul with a push and hold function – with the light coming on only for 6th cancel.

    Cruise control is handled well by installing a cable style Ford cruise servo out of a gas powered Super Duty, and the cruise light still works in your year of truck. The other gauges still work as well with help from my recommended Cummins conversion parts vendor, Diesel Conversion Specialists. Since the cable type cruise servo keeps the TPS signal active when cruise is active there is no need for my integration/cruise module in regard to the transmission. The module is nice if you don’t get over 75% throttle regularly and don’t want to get in the habit of pushing the accelerator to the floor daily to keep the TPS signal calibrated. Otherwise if you want to save some money and keep things as simple as possible, the TPS signal can go straight to the tcm and once in the habit, the pedal push to the floor is not a big deal.

    If you had the time to read my site well, you know also that you will need an EFI Live tuning device for custom tuning – this is what really sets my system apart from all the rest. Without that you are left to depend on manual shifting for your truck to work well. The EFI Live device also has great diagnostic capabilities if you ever have issues. If you want to adjust the settings yourself you would need the V2, otherwise I can make the adjustments according to what I see on recordings of test drives and your input that you send me using the AutoCal and a Windows based computer. For other guys reading this – a laptop is a must for a 5 speed.

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