September 25, 2020 at 9:15 am #260Jason DKeymaster
Information you need to know before you buy anything:
Please understand that I do not claim to support the mechanical part of this swap into any and all vehicles out there. I help where I can, and eventually some of my customers will also chime in here as well. Read it through a few times and ask me other questions you have, but realize no one can support every decision on how to do this swap for you, if you are looking for that you’ll get in over your head and should find a reputable mechanic to do the swap for you.
The general forums cover a lot of general information about the Allison swap, including adapter options, torque converter stall. The Dodge DHD 241 or DLD 241 are typical transfer case options for this swap and each have their own forum in the general forum.
At this point I only have two customers running a 2010 and newer transmission. These require a different control system that is about $650 more to run the line pressure right in that trans in a stand alone fashion, and 4×4 versions have a different extension housing which limits
transfer case options considerably.
94-98 Dodge 6 speed Allison Option Prices
TCM and basic harness – $1300.00
Fuse/relay box options – $75 to $200.00 or more
Blank EFI Live V3 AutoCal – $508 Alternative is used V2 AutoCal – typical price used is $200
Typical estimated tuning budget, cost of 3 hours – $150
Tuning costs may be less or more, as tuning support is provided at $50.00/hr. If you end up needing 6 hours of tuning it will be $150 more.
Use your Dodge Throttle Position Sensor, or purchase a universal sensor from Powertrain Control Solutions for about $120 shipped. More info on these in the general forum section.
Estimated cost for above items – $2278.00
The transmission controller is an OEM system with a special calibration that allows it to be used in a conversion. The advantages of using the OEM system are:
◦ Adaptive learning keeps the shift quality maintained
◦ OBDII diagnostics
◦ A secondary tow/haul shift schedule at the flip of a switch.
◦ Exhaust brake controls- automatic downshifts with engine braking features are included.
What does not work:
◦ Tap up/down shifting is not available at this time. If the transmission is tuned well tap shifting is not as necessary for good operation. If you feel you absolutely need tap shift, you’ll have to try out a competitor’s system, but be aware that you may end up depending on that feature all the time to replace the need for custom tuning!
◦ 6th cancel and tow/haul do not work at the same time. However, 6th gear can be tuned out or only happen at light throttle in tow/haul.
Shifter linkage and etc.
It may be possible to add a bracket to support the original mechanical shifter linkage and build a link from that back to the Allison shift lever. If not an aftermarket 4 speed automatic floor shifter could be used. The standard Allison shifter selection I use for 6 speeds is 6-4-3-1. No matter what type of selection is used, the manual shift selection always skips two gears.
If you want a better gear indicator, Powertrain Control Solutions sells a digital indicator that I have proven works with my system.
Electric push button shifter systems are available but they are an investment and do not offer any more manual shift control than a regular shifter.
I am predicting that a stock trans in good condition and my tuning will handle mild performance upgrades up to 375 hp. But I cannot guarantee it.
Anyone out there that doesn’t have any disclaimers is not telling you the whole truth. The system I offer is a tune-able OEM system, and I have over 50 6 speed customers using it now, but every custom truck is a little different. This being the case you need to expect to spend some time and fuel tuning. Do not expect everything to work out of the box or to go on your merry way with only a few tuning sessions. I need lots of happy customers out there advertising for me via word of mouth out here in internet land, so I can assure you I will do my very best to provide you with a good system that works well but there may be a few issues to work through. I have a stand alone Allison transmission truck of my own, and all the systems I sell are tested in my truck before they ship. If you ever have a problem with my system I will be available to figure out what the issue is, and if necessary test it in my own truck and get you back on the road. I’m working hard to invest more than enough time and resources to be the best stand alone Allison control system provider, and I know the judges are my customers- the proof is in the pudding as they say.
From a 89 Dodge Cummins to a 2015 Dodge Cummins – or a 69 Chevy 2 ton, rather than building a wire harness that you may have to tear half apart and add length to a bunch of wires – I design and build the harness for your vehicle. You can mount the TCM and fuse box in the cab of the truck if you have room, or in the engine compartment. I do not recommend mounting the TCM on the engine, or in the engine compartment where sufficient air flow will keep it cool enough. A 1 3/4″ hole is needed in the firewall to pass the push on style transmission connector through if this mounting location is chosen. The commercial thread on transmission connector is a good bit bigger – let me know what type you will have. Since I build the harnesses to order, I charge a non-refundable $400.00 deposit that is applied toward the purchase of your system. If you do not follow through and purchase the system after it is completed in 1 week or less, I reserve the right to sell the harness to someone else and keep your deposit.
I build a premium harness with high temperature rated wire and loom, and use premium wrap and tape – stuff that is well worth the cost and makes my harness last. If you do not want to take the time and plan the harness
build, go buy a one size fits all harness from someone else and good luck with it fitting your vehicle :). Otherwise, take full advantage of the custom harness build and plan a well fitting harness by providing me with the following measurements:
1. TCM to the main trans connector on the passenger side of the transmission.
2. TCM or Fuse/Relay box option if used to power and ground points.
3. TCM to throttle position sensor
4. TCM to dash for OBDII diagnostic connector, indicator lights, and switches
5. TCM to any clear breakouts from the main trunk of the harness you may clearly see. I have a transmission here so the speed sensors and so forth on the trans I build to standards I have proven, but this only applies to the normal routing I mention later on.
I can provide 90 right, left, or straight harness connectors. The TCM is
about 10″ long including the harness connector and 6″ wide at the
mounting tabs. Right exit harness dress covers make the harness exit 90
degrees to the right as viewed from the top of the TCM, as shown at the
right. Left exit and straight harness dress covers are also available, and I
can build as detailed as what direction you want breakouts to be so let me
know what your preference is, otherwise I will build according to my best
Usually, the harness is best routed down the inside of the driver’s side frame rail, over to the trans via the transmission crossmember and then over the back of the transmission, as shown above in green. The speed sensor wiring leaves the main trunk near the top of the rear of the trans and goes up the driver side of the trans to the input speed and turbine speed sensors, and to the rear of the trans to the output shaft speed sensor. If you plan to use an output speed sensor in some other location as the driver side rear of the extension housing you need to make sure you let me know via email and a measurement for that as well.
I include a key on power relay in all my builds to avoid overloading factory circuits. The fuse/relay box option is nice for vehicles that need reverse light and neutral safety relays, (your truck will need one for reverse lights at least) and also gives you extra relays and fused key on circuits. If you don’t want anything extra, you can do without the fuse/relay box if you like. The fuse/relay box is 4.5″ long, 3.5″ wide, and 3 3/4″ tall and must be mounted in the same general location as the TCM. I wire up 3 of the 5 relays, and include 3 extra 5 amp key on power wires for the standard $200 cost. I can fully build the fuse/relay box according to your needs for a reasonable additional cost.
I can accept your credit or debit card payment through PayPal.
Sorry, I do not accept personal checks or money orders of any kind.
An additional 2.5% of invoice is applied to all international payments.
The default shipping company I use is Fed Ex, they are typically cheaper and usually faster as well, however if you have never received a package via Fed Ex, or have had bad experiences in the past you may want to get your package via UPS. USPS is also available, however they are most expensive when insurance for the value of the package is applied. Overseas shipments ship via DHL, but the box must be first shipped to DHL in Denver Colorado via Fed Ex in order to be insured for that part of it’s trip. I have shipped enough packages to have also had some bad experiences getting claims awarded for lost or damaged packages. The biggest reason claims to not go through is the package was sent without a signature required for delivery. All shipments require a signature for delivery and require full insurance on the purchase amount. You may choose to waive the signature and insurance if you want, but you will accept any and all losses as a result.
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